30/08/2020

Wild durians of Borneo


THE common edible durian, Durio zibithinus, or 'durian puteh', which we talked about last week, is not the only durian to be found in Borneo.

It may come as a surprise to learn that there are about 20 wild species, with about 12 being found in Sabah. Several of these also have edible fruits, some being cultivated on a small scale.

Though they are not often seen in the main markets, rural 'tamus' and roadside stalls can be rewarding, so look out for these over the next couple of months!

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Durio Graveolens (Durian Merah or Durian Dalit)
Durio graveolens is one of the most popular durian species, sold widely in markets throughout Borneo

Durio graveolens, sometimes called the red-fleshed durian, orange-fleshed durian, or yellow durian, is a species of tree in the family Malvaceae. It is one of six species of durian named by Italian naturalist Odoardo Beccari. The specific epithet graveolens ('strong smelling' or 'rank') is due to the odor. Although most species of Durio (most notably Durio dulcis) have a strong scent, the red-fleshed type of D. graveolens has a mild scent. It is native to Southeast Asia.

Durio graveolens is an edible durian, perhaps the most popular 'wild' species of durian, and it is sold commercially regionally. However, its congener Durio zibethinus is the typical species eaten and dominates sales worldwide. This species should not be confused with the popular durian clones from Malaysia known as 'Red Flesh' (D164) and 'Red Prawn' (D175), as both of those belong to Durio zibethinus.

However, Durio graveolens does have one registered variety, 'DQ2 nyekak (DK8)'. The color of the fruit's flesh denotes other varieties–an orange-fleshed, a red-fleshed one, and yellow-fleshed. These varieties may be different species, but currently there is no consensus. The yellow-fleshed kind is sometimes called durian simpor.

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Durio Oxleyanus (Durian Sukang)

Durio oxleyanus is a petite, pretty durian with long green spines. It’s powdered sugar sweetness is encased in a creamy, mildly fruity flesh that is totally lacking in durian aroma.  It’s a wonder this little-known durian is not the belle of durian markets across Southeast Asia. Rob and I didn’t start looking for Durio oxleyanus until we got to Borneo. Like most people, we thought mainland Malaysia held only treasures of the zibethinus kind. If we’d known better, we could have been enjoying this little sugar-bomb all along. In fact, Durio oxleyanus was first collected and described in Penang, an island off the east coast of Malaysia.

Durio oxleyanus is a beautiful, spring-green durian with long, sometimes curly spikes. The spikes are broader and blunter than most durians, curving away from the fruit body like stocky tentacles. Rarely growing larger than a one pound (500 grams), and never more than two (1 kilogram), it’s a durian you can easily hold in the palm of one hand.  It’s small size and appearance invites comparisons to a green sea urchin.

Inside, the flesh is a creamy white or grey tinged with yellow. Each section cradles only one or two seeds. Even when very ripe, it is nearly odorless with a saccharine sweetness that makes it extremely popular among even those who normally dislike durian. The most distinguishing characteristic is that, unlike every other durian, it has only four seeded-sections. All other durians have five.

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Durio Kutejensis (Durian Lai)

Durio Kutejensis, commonly known as durian pulu, durian merah, nyekak, Pakan, Kuluk, or lai, is a primary rainforest substorey fruit tree from Borneo. It is a very attractive small-to medium-sized tree up to 30 m tall. It has large, glossy leaves, numerous large, red flowers that emit a strong carrion smell at anthesis.

This species is reportedly pollinated by giant honey bees and birds, as well as bats. The large durian fruit it bears has thick, yellow flesh with a mild, sweet taste and creamy texture similar to that of Durio zibethinus. It bears fruit late in the season. It is cultivated in East Kalimantan and has been introduced to Queensland.

In Brunei, the fruit of Durio Kutejensis is preferred by local consumers over that of Durio Zibethinus, though the latter is the only durian species available in the international market. The fruit is also said to have fewer of the unpleasant flavors that Durio Zibethinus has.


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Durio Kinabaluensis (Durian Tapuloh or Durian Kinabalu)

On the steep hillsides of the Crocker Mountain Range grows a unique durian species that thrives at high elevations. Although uncultivated and generally neglected by botanists and agronomists, it’s a local favorite for its simple sweet flavor. It’s still one of the least well known of the edible jungle durians, although it is easy to find if you know where to look.

Durio Kinabaluensis grows throughout the Crocker Mountain range in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo. Rob and I found trees growing near the Kipandi Butterfly Park, but the fruits were immature. We were told they had been selling mature fruits at the Donggongon Market earlier that day, but they were sold out by the time we arrived in the afternoon. I have also heard that this durian is frequently for sale in Nobutan Village and around Ranau.

Durio Kinabaluensis comes into season about a month later than other durian species. Last year (2012) it’s peak was at the end of December and beginning of January.

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Durio Testudinarium (Durian Kura-Kura or Tortoise Durian)

Rob and I were lucky to find Durio Testudinarum twice in Borneo, as it is one of the rarest edible durian species. Many people don’t consider it edible because of the strong, musky odor it has when ripe. Yet the flavor is sweet and juicy, a contrast to the usually heavy durian. That’s reason enough to appreciate this jungle durian. Where it get its fame is that instead of growing on the branches, these durians sprout from the trunk and roots of the tree.

Durio Testudinarum grows throughout the jungles of Borneo. It is never cultivated, although in a few areas people keep them in backyards as a curiosity.  According to sources, it is most commonly found in Ulu Dusun, near Sandakan, and Kampung Lingkungan in Brunei.  Very occasionally it is found in markets, such as the Thursday morning fruit market in Tutong, Brunei.

It’s relative obscurity means that the season for Durio Testudinarum is unknown and varies from region to region. When Rob and I found a tree in the Upper Kapuas of West Kalimantan, the fruits were tiny and immature. Only two weeks later we managed to taste the very last fruit from a tree at the Tenom Agricultural Park.

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Durio Dulcis (Durian Tahis)

Everything about Durio Dulcis is just a little bit magical. The tree is one of the more rare durians, residing deep in the jungles of Borneo. When in season, the red orbs dot the leafy forest floor like fallen Christmas ornaments, that sensational red leaping out of the green foliage like a natural stop light. It’s the strongest smelling durian, and its odor is said to waft as much as a kilometer through the jungle.

Durio Dulcis has a bright red exterior with long, extremely sharp thorns that are sometimes yellow or black on the tips. It is extremely difficult to open because it lacks the weakened seams running stem to tip that every other durian opens along. Getting into a Durio Dulcis requires a machete. Generally, the fruit is simply whacked in half and the gooey flesh is scraped out with the fingers.

It grows wild throughout Borneo, but is not generally cultivated. Rob and I found it twice; at the Agricultural Park in Tenom, Sabah, and near a longhouse in the Upper Kapuas region of West Kalimantan.


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Durio Grandiflorus (Durian Hantu or Ghost Durian)

Of all the durian species on Borneo, I was the most excited about Durio Grandiflorus, known locally as the ghost durian. I didn’t believe that finding it would be hard, as it apparently grows all over Borneo. I was much more concerned about finding the admittedly rare Durio Testudinarum and Durio Dulcis. But this is the most elusive of durians. Although we searched Sabah, Sarawak, and Kalimantan, Durio Grandiflorus evaded us. Not even my botany contacts have a picture. Ghost durian indeed.

Durio Grandiflorus  is a medium durian with long, stiff spines. Supposedly it’s greyish-blue exterior adds to the myth of ghostliness. The flesh is yellow and purportedly edible, although one botanist I interviewed barely remembered it. He said the flavor was not strong, and the flesh was pretty thin. He kept comparing it infavorably to Durio Graveolens, which apparently he likes very much. Although it’s not very relevant to the gustatory pleasure of the fruit, one interesting thing about Durio Grandiflorus is its relationship with Spiderhunters. Unlike most durians, which are pollinated at night by bats, this durian depends on these spunky little birds to reproduce.

Although we didn’t manage to find it, Durio Grandiflorus occurs throughout the island of Borneo, especially near Sandakan and Miri. It can occasionally be found at markets in Brunei.


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Durio Zibethinus (Durian puteh)

Durio zibethinus is the most common tree species in the genus Durio that are known as durian and have edible fruit also known as durian.

As with most other durian species, the edible flesh emits a distinctive odour that is strong and penetrating even when the husk is intact. Some people regard the durian as having a pleasantly sweet fragrance; others find the aroma overpowering and revolting. The smell evokes reactions from deep appreciation to intense disgust, and has been described variously as rotten onions, turpentine, and raw sewage. The persistence of its odour has led to the fruit's banishment from certain hotels and public transportation in Southeast Asia.

There are 30 recognised Durio species, at least nine of which produce edible fruit. Durio zibethinus is the only species available in the international market: other species are sold in their local regions. There are hundreds of cultivars of Durio zibethinus; many consumers express preferences for specific cultivars, which fetch higher prices in the market.

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10 Best Malaysian Durians

Indonesian Thornless Durian

related:
Hail the King of Fruits
The King of Fruits in Space
A Rotting Durian Fruit Smelled So Bad
Wild Durians From East Malaysia - Sabah & Sarawak‏