The country’s epic scale adds further adventure to this route, which takes in historic villages, national parks and megacities while staying in budget accommodation
China’s vast size and expensive visas, coupled with the perceived difficulties of travelling there, means much of the country remains relatively unexplored by international visitors. Thanks to this though, with a little determination and time, it’s possible to wind up in places where locals will have rarely seen a foreign face, such as Cangpo village in Zheijang’s verdant bamboo-covered landscapes. Even in the big cities you will come across domestic tourists for whom foreigners are a novelty.
In Beijing, tick off the must-see sights of the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square, and spend a few surreal minutes walking past the embalmed body of Mao Zedong in his mausoleum. Wander the narrow hutongs (alleyways) of the Wudaoying and Fangjia neighbourhoods, stumbling across hidden bars and restaurants. Visit the Simatai section of the Great Wall for fewer crowds, dizzying climbs and stunning views. From Beijing, take the train to Xi’an (5-6 hours) or go via the ancient walled city of Pingyao (train, around 4 hours) and stay at Pingyao Jiaxin Guesthouse, an old courtyard building with traditional kang-heated beds (doubles from £11). Xi’an’s Terracotta Warriors are, quite simply, among the great archaeological wonders of the world. After jostling the crowds there, fuel up on some of China’s best food at the Muslim Quarter market.
Things to know and do:
- Getting around - China is massive and getting anywhere will probably take much longer than anticipated, and it gets more time-consuming the further west you go. The comfortable high-speed trains can be a fast way to cover distances (see our guide to travelling by train in China), while the older long-distance sleeper trains make for an adventure. While quicker than trains, domestic flights can be expensive and plagued by delays. Coaches are a good option in places with no railway stations. In towns and cities, public transport is cheap, starting from around 10p for bus and metro journeys.
- Accommodation - Youth hostels and guesthouses outside of the major cities are usually extremely cheap – just a few pounds for a bed in a dormitory. According to Hostelworld, the average price of a hostel bed is £10 in major cities and £6 in other areas, though breakfast isn’t always included. If you don’t mind haggling, it’s possible to negotiate a discounted walk-in price, especially outside the Chinese holidays. Expect firmer mattresses than you may be used to as Chinese people, especially the older generation, have a preference for hard beds.
- Need to know - Many Chinese people have a fairly boisterous attitude to etiquette and there’s little the average traveller will do to offend. In restaurants, expect to receive your free glass of water boiling hot even on blisteringly hot days thanks to the belief that cold drinks are harmful. To access the usual apps and websites while travelling, be sure to subscribe to a decent Virtual Private Network (VPN) before arriving. Messaging app WeChat is handy for making local friends and for translation.
- If you eat or drink one thing - Forget the idea that Chinese food is all noodles and rice. Head to the busy food market in Xi’an’s Muslim Quarter and get your hands on a greasy, delicious roujiamo. Usually made from delicately spiced pulled pork (or lamb or beef from a Muslim food store) sandwiched in a round pitta-like bun, these “Chinese sandwiches” are a cheap, filling snack. Ingredients and taste vary from place to place, too, so you’ll never tire of sampling local versions.
- Daily budget - While local food is cheap, major tourist attractions can be expensive (although many give discounts to students and seniors). Budget at least £35pp a day. There’s no tipping so this can help keep costs down.
- Moving on - Head to Taiwan to see what mainland China might have been without 60 years of Communist rule. There are flights to Taipei from most major mainland cities; popular airlines include Taiwanese carrier China Airlines and Shanghai-based China Eastern. In Taiwan, Mandarin Chinese is used so any words or phrases picked up on the mainland won’t go to waste. You’ll need to brush up on your traditional Chinese characters, though, rather than the simplified version used in mainland China.
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