06/02/2022

Mad for this millennial char kway teow

Heeding customers' advice, young hawker adds a splash of stock to the dish and it makes all the difference

How can something so ugly be so good? That was the reaction from late celebrity chef and food show host Anthony Bourdain when I first took him to try char kway teow. Indeed, besides rojak, it is one of the hardest dishes to photograph.

It is essentially a dark brown blob on a plate, with bits of green, cockles and Chinese wax sausages peeking out amid the mound of kway teow and yellow noodles.

So why did Mr Cody Tan, 31, embark on a journey to become a hawker of this "uglylicious" dish? He was a marketing and sales executive helping out at his father's poultry and egg supply company. When the elderly man fell sick, Mr Tan had to take on the delivery role.