The man behind fish head curry
Mr M.J. Gomez with his wife Mariyamma, daughter Philomena and son John in a photograph taken in Singapore before the family returned to India in the 1960s. PHOTO: COURTESY OF DESMOND GOMEZ
While many have savoured the fish head curry dish in food-obsessed Singapore, the man often credited with its creation has always been a bit of an enigma. Just who was Mr M.J. Gomez? And where did he disappear to? The quest to hunt down Mr Gomez started in 2010 but hit a roadblock soon after. All that was known was that he had given up his business and returned to his native Kerala in the 1960s.
Then came a post on Facebook last year with a photograph of Mr Gomez and a brief description of the fish head curry he had created. The trail soon led to Mr Gomez's grandson Desmond, a dental surgeon working in Bahrain. His father, Dr John Gomez, was then working in Muscat, Oman. It turned out that Mr Gomez, on his return to India in the 1960s, had settled in my ancestral hometown, Kollam, and had lived there till he died in 1974. Dr John Gomez shared his father's story in an interview in Kollam. Mr Marian Jacob Gomez, the eldest of seven children, started working at the age of 17, after his father died.He came to Singapore from Trivandrum, the capital of Kerala, in the 1930s before returning to get married. After the birth of his first child, a daughter, he returned to Singapore, only to get caught here during the war. When the war ended, Mr Gomez went back and spent a few years in India. That was when his son John was born.
Mr Gomez then came to Singapore again, and later brought his family over. They lived in Sophia Road, where he started his restaurant, Gomez Curry, which later moved to nearby Selegie Road. Mr Gomez, known for his spicy dishes, came up with an idea to make fish curry more appealing to Chinese customers. "Fish head was not particularly an Indian delicacy. Understanding it to be a favourite with the Chinese, Gomez tried this dish to please his Chinese customers," says the National Library Board's Infopedia website. It clicked, eventually leading to various versions of the dish and its iconic status today.
Singapore Special: Fish Head Curry
M. J. Gomez, the George Washington of fish head curry, arrived in Singapore in 1928 from Trivandrum on the Malabar coast of India, which is now the state of Kerala. He retired and went home in 1961, having established fish head curry as a dish much more revered in Singapore than it was in his native land. Now more than a dozen restaurants serve it as their main course, often with just variety of curried crab, shrimp, other meats and vegetables as side dishes.
Through friends and some early reconnaissance, Mrs. Hutton had already eliminated some of these contenders. And since Singapore's best food has always been served in the street, near the curb or in open‐air restaurants, we immediately rejected airconditioned places out of respect for tradition. Singapore, ever modernizing, has embraced air‐conditioning with vengeance. But for lunch and dinner, most Singaporeans stream for the street stalls and open‐air restaurants serving Chinese, Malay and Indian food.
Finicky tourists are a bit wary, expecting to share their meal with assorted winged creatures, which is silly. It is an exaggeration to say that the last confirmed sighting of a fly here was around the turn of the decade, but you get the point. The sanitation rules are so strictly enforced that one half expects the Sierra Club to start a local save‐the‐fly movement_Anyway, our first stop, appropriately enough, was a place named Gomez Curry, at 9 Selegie Road, just down the hill from M.J.'s old place. Its proprietor, Maria Das, claims to be Mr. Gomez's only remaining disciple. He says that he and Sebastian DeCruz, one of his cooks, shelter the secret Gomez recipe religiously.
Fish head curry inventor died in 1974 without knowing his dish would be famous in S'pore
Imagine sparking a food revolution in a country you happen to spend some time in -- and then feeling a little disgruntled before dying because you never got to find out the scope of your contribution to culinary history. Well, that's the story of Marian Jacob Gomez, who is more popularly referred to as M.J. Gomez, Singapore's inventor of the fish head curry.
What led to the search for M.J Gomez? In a March 1979 article by the New York Times, fish head curry was written about at some length. The search for the founder of Singapore's fish head curry was recounted in tabla! in December 2017. The name M.J. Gomez, widely cited as the man who introduced the fish head curry dish here, was an enigma due to a lack of records. If not for tabla! publishing its piece, it was not even certain what the initials "M.J." stood for. The Indian community here, up till this day, is said to be familiar with his name, but no one knows exactly who he was. Until a chance encounter on Facebook, where a post described fish head curry and Gomez.
From there, M.J. Gomez's grandson and son were traced and interviewed. The Gomez family lived in Sophia Road, where the head of the house started his restaurant, Gomez Curry, which later moved to nearby Selegie Road. The official year fish head curry was first sold has been cited as 1949. Gomez is credited for popularising the fish head curry dish among the Chinese, by making it sweeter and less spicy. Indians were not even known to consume the head of the fish. Raw fish head is believed to have been discarded or valued lowly by fishmongers in the past. In 1964, Gomez returned to India and settled in Kollam, despite setting up a viable business in Singapore. He lived there till he died in 1974.
THE SINGAPORE FISH HEAD CURRY STORY
The Fish Head curry took on an iconic status, in Singapore. It was on any foodie’s bucket list of things to eat.
Thanks to a man named Gomez who created the curry in his restaurant in Singapore and slowly it evolved into a dish that even the Chinese swear by. Mr. M.J. Gomez credited with creating the dish in Singapore sometime in the 1930’s was from Kollam!
Gomez came back to Tangasseri, Kollam in the 1960’s leaving his ‘GOMEZ’s CURRY’ restaurant (which he launched on Sophia Road where he stayed) to his trusted trishaw man KT, Rocky his longtime waiter in the restaurant and Sebastian the cook. Gomez passed on in Kollam in 1974. But his fish head recipe lives on in Singapore.
Fish Head Curry
Fish head curry is immensely popular in Malaysia and Singapore. With South Indian origins, it uses a combination of various spices and ingredients to create its well accepted delectable taste. One of the most sought after curry in both Malaysian and Singapore is the fish head curry. Commonly found at many Indian eateries like "mamak", fish head curry is ordered as an additional dish to go with steamed white rice.
Just like some dishes found in Malaysia and Singapore, this recipe has been adapted to the taste of the locals ever since it was introduced by the Indian migrants when they moved to the region. Thus, it is no surprise that fish head curry is not known in India. But, why fish head? The meat located at the jaws of red sea bream, below the gills and the back of the neck is sweet and delicate. It is where the layers of fine meat structure absorb the flavours of the curry or sauce that it is cooked in, hence making fish head much sought after when cooking curry.
Therefore, it is no surprise that some* would only devour the fish head even though the whole fish is served in dishes like Cantonese steamed fish. Due to its popularity, there is now a variety of fish head curries depending on the ethnic flavour profiles such as Nyonya fish head curry or Thai fish head curry. Although there is a great variety, the Indian fish head curry still remains my favourite. It is also known as the healthier version as it does not uses any coconut milk but yet is able to deliver the thick and luscious curry flavours. There are a few tips to making the perfect fish head curry and I have you covered.
Fish head curry
Fish head curry (Malay and Indonesian: kari kepala ikan) is a dish in Indonesian, Malaysian and Singaporean cuisines with mixed Indian and Chinese origins. The head of a red snapper is stewed in a Kerala-style curry with assorted vegetables such as okra and eggplants. It is usually served with either rice or bread, or as a shared dish.
It is believed that fish head curry was invented when chef M.J. Gomez from Kerala, India adopted the dish to bring South Indian cuisine to diners in Singapore. Although fish head was not widely served in India, Chinese customers considered it to be a special delicacy, so M.J. had the idea of cooking the fish in curry instead. The dish was first sold in 1949, at the restaurant opened by Gomez.
Today, Indian, Malay, Chinese, and Peranakan restaurants all serve variations of this dish. Fish head curry has become a popular dish among Singaporeans and tourists alike. Costing between $10 and $20, it is generally not considered cheap hawker fare. It typically comes served in a clay pot, and is often sold at hawker centers and neighbourhood food stalls.
Fish Head Curry
This delectable dish is usually cooked with both tamarind and coconut milk, giving it a rich, nuanced flavour
The squeamish will squirm at the sight of puffy cheeks and bulging fish eyes surrounded in a sea of red gravy. Yet, for many, it is a visually appetising feast—usually eaten with rice to soak up the fragrant curry. Fish head curry is unique to Singapore, the epitome of a cultural melting pot. It mixes the spices of a typical South Indian curry with the fish head, a delicacy among the Chinese.
Every ethnic group here has its own version of the dish, with slight variations to the curry. Some mix in tamarind paste for a tinge of sourness, others add coconut milk for a creamier texture. The only similarity is the head of a fleshy Red Snapper swimming in a pool of spicy gravy, along with a mix of vegetables such as okra (lady fingers) and egg plant.
Fish head curry was created in the kitchen of a small Indian restaurant in the 1940s. Fish head is not considered an Indian ingredient, but to please his Chinese customers, restaurant owner M.J. Gomez—a restaurant owner from the Southern Indian state of Kerala—blended Indian curry with the Chinese favourite fish head. The result was a hit. Today, it is on the menu in Indian, Chinese, Malay and Peranakan restaurants, often served still bubbling away in a large clay pot. Fish aficionados will proclaim that the cheeks have the best flesh, and the eyes are a treat.
Samy’s Curry Is SG’s Oldest & Most Authentic South Indian Restaurant & Served 3 Generations Worth Of Customers
In the 1960s, a couple of years after Singapore gained independence, there was a large influx of merchants from all over the world, including Indian traders, who brought spices and silk to our shores. Together with these Indian traders came Mr M. Veerasamy, a humble South Indian cook whose main purpose was to cook authentic Indian cuisine for these merchants.
What started out as simple cooking quickly evolved to sharing home-cooked food with neighbours, which slowly turned into Samy’s Curry, the famed Indian restaurant that’s most well known for its signature fish head curry. In fact, Mr M. Veerasamy was one of the first few cooks to sell fish head curry in Singapore. Samy’s Curry first began as a tiny roadside stall at Tank Road in the 1960s, and then progressed to a restaurant located within the Ministry of Social Affairs in 1970s.
After seeing how popular his food was with the public, Mr Veerasamy then decided to relocate to 25 Dempsey Hill, which has been the home of Samy’s Curry for more than 40 years now. What you see here at Dempsey Hill is a snapshot of the 1970s, because nothing from the building has changed. The restaurant is situated within an old white colonial house, surrounded by lush greenery, tweeting birds and chirping crickets.
Fish head curry
Fish head curry is a spicy, curried dish unique to Singapore. Blending the spices of a typical South Indian fish curry with the fish head, the dish is a delicacy among the Chinese.
Fish head curry was first sold from a stall at Sophia Road in 1949. It was the brainchild of Indian immigrant, M. J. Gomez, even though the head of the fish was not particularly an Indian delicacy.3 Gomez prepared the dish to please his Chinese customers, based on his understanding that fish head was a favourite among the Chinese.4 Since then, fish head curry has become a hit in Singapore and across the Causeway.
The popularity of fish head curry drew enterprising Chinese chefs to experiment with the dish. One such pioneering chef was Hoong Ah Kong, who modified the Indian recipe at his first restaurant, Chin Wah Heng, in 1951. His version was made with a moderation of spices and by steaming the fish head first. Fish head curry became so popular among the different ethnic communities in Singapore that stalls started advertising their own “Gomez fish head curry” or “original Gomez curry” in the 1970s and 1980s. Little India has a “Curry Row” along Race Course Road where several restaurants offer fish head curry, including Muthu’s Curry Restaurant.
Muthu’s Curry
Muthu’s Curry is a South Indian restaurant famous for its fish head curry served on banana leaves. Established in 1969 on Klang Road by Muthu Ayyakkanu, it has expanded from a small self-manned stall to a swanky restaurant that provides dine-in and catering services.1 Muthu’s Curry currently has three outlets located at Race Course Road, Suntec City Mall and Dempsey Road. It is managed by Muthu Ayyakkanu’s two sons, Kasivisvanaath and Srinivas.
Cooking had been a part of Muthu Ayyankannu’s family tradition. After World War II, his grandfather came to Singapore to cook for the employees of provisions dealer, Selvi Stores. Muthu Ayyakkannu started to sell fish head curry in 1969 at a small coffee shop on Klang Road. At the time, there were a few other restaurants serving their own versions of fish head curry. Most of these restaurants belonged to the Chinese, Nonya and Goan communities. Muthu Ayyakannu gave his recipe a South Indian twist, typical of his home region in Chettinad, Tamil Nadu. The recipe became a hit and his business grew rapidly.
While keeping the stall on Klang Road open, Muthu Ayyakkannu launched a restaurant in 1974 at 78 Race Course Road – not far from where the flagship restaurant is today. It was called Muthu’s Makan Shop before it became Muthu’s Curry in 1982.6 Race Course Road is home to a string of other well-known fish head curry restaurants, including Banana Leaf Appollo and KP Pillai Curry Inn. The area is popularly referred to as the “Curry Row”, and there has been intense competition among these eateries. Nevertheless, Muthu’s Curry has been able to sustain its position over the last several decades.
Top 10 Places for Fish Head Curry in Singapore
(Most) Singaporeans simply love curry dishes and among them has to be the fish head curry. They are normally served in a typically spicy and robust version or the spicy-sour Nyonya style, both of which come with assorted vegetables. So, if you are longing for some spicy seafood goodness, we got that all covered with a list of Top 10 Places For Fish Head Curry in Singapore:
- Yu Cun Curry Fish Head - Yu Cun’s signature Claypot Curry Fish Head is undoubtedly a crowd favourite here. The reason? Fresh fish head cooked in reasonably thick curry gravy packed with assorted vegetables like eggplant, okra and long bean. Expect moist and tender meat that absorbs the curry well. Their Claypot Curry Fish Head is generally tolerable in terms of its spice level. But you can request for a spicier version if you prefer your curry fish head spicier.
- Nana’s Homemade Fish Head Curry - Nana’s Homemade Fish Head Curry has been around since 1989 and its longevity lies in its one-of-a-kind recipe. That recipe in question is the combination of fresh fish head and soft, yet mushy yam in the thick curry. As weird as it may seem, it is, in fact, a bestseller! It’s so good that they even won the coveted Michelin Bib Gourmand Award for five consecutive years. Their success has led them to operate four outlets in Singapore.
- West Co’z Cafe - Here’s a rare cafe that specialises in the halal version of zi char and of course, its must-try fish head curry. They use the fresh fish head cooked in the spicier-than-usual curry gravy and added with other ingredients like eggplant and beancurd puff (taupok). No doubt a fiery, gastronomic delight, particularly for those who love all things spicy. West Co’z Cafe has two outlets in Singapore.
- 805 Seafood Kitchen - 805 Seafood Kitchen offers assorted seafood dishes covering from Salted Egg Prawn to Chilli Crab, Fish Head and Steamed Red Grouper Fish in Teochew Style. Then, there’s the Fish Head Curry, which turns out to be their signature dish. They use red snapper fish head, which is known for its tender texture and absorbs well with the curry.
- Ocean Curry Fish Head - If you prefer Nyonya-style fish head curry, you might want to give Ocean Fish Head Curry a try. Available in half or whole portions, they only insist on using fresh fish head while the curry isn’t just spicy but also packed with a subtle hint of sweetness and sour tang. There are three branches available in Singapore.
- Xin Yuan Ji - Xin Yuan Ji’s speciality lies in its assorted fish dishes from fish head steamboat to fish bee hoon and fish soup. And let’s not forget the equally recommended Assam fish head curry served in a claypot. Those who can’t handle a high level of spice can rest assured their curry tastes mild and not overly spicy. Xin Yuan Ji is also blessed with a strategic location, which only takes a short walking distance from Bugis MRT Station.
- Chye Lye Curry Fish Head Restaurant - Chye Lee’s fish head curry comes in medium and large sizes, where they serve it in spicy-sour Assam style. And like any good fish head curry, you can expect a fresh one that goes with the appetising, yet slurp-worthy curry gravy. If you plan for takeaways or dine-in, do call them in advance.
- Gu Ma Jia Private Kitchen - Operating since 2009, Gu Ma Jia (meaning “auntie’s house” in Chinese) offers plenty of signature dishes on the menu and one of them happens to be the Assam Fish Head. A must-try for fish head lovers, she serves it in a home-cooked style from her private kitchen. Using only fresh ingredients and secret recipes, the Assam Fish Head has a distinctly spicy-sour taste, coupled with the freshness of the fish head.
- The Banana Leaf Apolo - Established in 1974, The Banana Leaf Apolo serves South and North Indian cuisines and among their signature dishes include the Apolo Fish Head Curry. Available in small, medium and large sizes, the dish consists of a fresh fish head soaked in thick curry gravy. They use only authentic spices to boost the flavour of the curry while various vegetables like okra and eggplant are added for some extra bites. The Banana Leaf Apolo has a few outlets islandwide.
- The Curry Wok - The Curry Wok serves various types of seafood dishes from Chilli Prawns to Authentic Steamed Fish Head in Hong Kong Soy Style and Sambal Fried Pomfret. But if there’s one dish you can’t afford to miss, it will be their recommended Curry Fish Head. They only use market-fresh fish for their dish that goes well with the spice-laden curry gravy. Available in small and medium sizes.
12 Fish Head Curry Restaurants To Dine At With The Family
With the capacity for dining-in now increased to 10 people for restaurants, and five for hawker centres and coffee shops, sharing dishes such as fish head curry are now back on the cards. If you’re planning your next family gathering, impress your second aunt or fifth uncle with some of the best fish head curry in Singapore:
- Na Na Curry - If you’re a true blue Singaporean, chances are you would probably have heard of Na Na Curry. Following its Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition, this homegrown chain has expanded to 10 locations islandwide. The Curry Fish Head ($25 for half, $36 for whole), features either red snapper or the gold-banded jobfish, AKA angoli, which are prized for their thick meat and gelatin.
- Pavilion Banana Leaf - Pavilion Banana Leaf offers a fish head curry that is perfect for those who like assam. Served in a flat claypot, the Pavilion Fish Head Curry ($32.50++ for half, $42.50++ for whole) gets you a meaty and sweet fish head. Drizzle some of the sour-tinged, savoury curry over a plate of Ponni White Rice ($2++), and enjoy the assortment of ladies’ fingers, tomatoes and eggplant that come with the curry.
- Ocean Curry Fish Head - The Assam Curry Fish Head ($26 for half) is the star of the show here at Ocean Curry Fish Head. But unlike most other eateries on this list, Ocean Curry Fish Head is not a zi char stall, or a restaurant that is dedicated to selling curry fish head. Instead, they sell economical rice, or cai png, and give customers the option to add on traditional zi char dishes.
- The Curry Wok - A short distance away from Botanic Gardens MRT Station, The Curry Wok is a family-run cafe known for its Teochew and Nyonya food. The Curry Fish Head ($28 for small, $32 for medium) here is made from fresh fish procured from the wet market daily, and is only steamed upon order. The spicy curry is packed with okra, tomato, and brinjal, for a hearty and balanced meal. Aside from Curry Fish Head, diners can also have the Beef Rendang ($13 for small, $19.50 for medium), which is slow-cooked with star anise and cinnamon sticks amongst other spices. The result is an inviting bowl of tender and fragrant beef.
- IVINS Peranakan Restaurant - Another Bukit Timah restaurant on this list, Ivins Peranakan Restaurant has been serving quality Nyonya cuisine for as long as I can remember. The Nonya Curry Fish Head ($27) is one of their best selling items, sought after for the tanginess of the curry and the sweetness of the fish. Good for three to four people, $27 gets you half a red snapper head, and the usual accompaniments of ladies’ fingers and eggplant. The coconut curry is creamy yet spicy, so don’t be too happy slurping it all down.
- Zai Shun Curry Fish Head - Come lunchtime, this Jurong East coffeeshop, in which Zai Shun Curry Fish Head can be found, is sure to be packed. The store is known for its many dishes that accompany their Teochew porridge, and the Curry Fish Head ($26) is one of them. Using only the freshest wild-caught red snapper, the stall ensures that there is no fishy odour plaguing the succulent meat. The tangy curry is moreish, and best enjoyed with a bowl of rice.
- Xin Yuan Ji - Although Xin Yuan Ji in Bugis is better known for its fish soup and fish head steamboat, the Assam Curry Fish Head here should not be overlooked. Priced at $25.80 for a small portion and $31.80 for a big portion, the dish comes with zhap chye—an assortment of cabbage, long beans, brinjal and even tau pok. The spicy gravy might be a challenge to some, but diners can at least take comfort in knowing that they will not perspire too much as the eatery is air-conditioned.
- Samy’s Curry Restaurant - The first restaurant on Dempsey Road, Samy’s Curry Restaurant has been dishing out some of the best curry in town for more than 50 years. The standout item on the menu is the Samy’s Fish Head Curry (from $22), which is cooked with snapper that is delivered to the restaurant’s doorstep daily. This dedication to quality rewards us with fresh fish meat, that’s firm yet tender, and not one bit fishy. As in true Indian curry fashion, the gravy is thick and seasoned generously with spices.
- West Coz Cafe - West Coz Cafe is an eatery suitable for iftar, as it offers a wide selection of halal zi char dishes. Get their signature Curry Fish Head ($24), which is served in a large claypot. The flesh of the fish head is exceptionally chonky, and goes well with the full-bodied and lemak curry. Other than the fish head, you’ll also get dried tofu puffs, long beans, brinjal, and ladies’ fingers.
- Gu Ma Jia Private Kitchen - Gu Ma Jia Private Kitchen is a no-frills restaurant that will fill your stomach with their huge portions. The family-run business is helmed by Mdm Chan, who hopes to make healthier versions of zi char dishes without MSG, and by using less salt, sugar, and oil. The Assam Fish Head ($31-$34) is the dish that helped the restaurant clinch a “Top Three Restaurant of 2017” award and it’s not difficult to see why. Thanks to the tamarind, the gravy is delightfully bright and light on the palate. Chunks of pineapple and tomato are also featured in the curry, which lends an additional layer of acidity.
- Karu’s Indian Banana Leaf Restaurant - As you can probably tell from the name, Karu’s Indian Banana Leaf Restaurant serves all of its items on banana leaves. Despite its eclectic mix of North and South Indian food, the eatery stands out for its Fish Head (from $28). The curry is made from a traditional blend of spices imported directly from India, which gives it its bright red hue. It’s a big portion, so go down in a larger group to finish everything!
- Canton Delicacies - Owned by an ex-Marriott chef, Canton Delicacies in Geylang Bahru Market and Food Centre offers a large selection of soups and Cantonese-style steamed dishes. The young chef has a wealth of experience from when he first started learning the ropes at the age of 13. The Signature Claypot Curry Fish Head ($22) draws upon the Cantonese technique of steaming the fish to the desired tenderness, before it’s left to simmer in the curry. The gravy itself is not too jelak, because it is well-balanced by the spices and the tanginess of the assam.
