15/02/2023

Hainanese chicken rice in the 1920s 海 南 雞 飯

Hainanese chicken rice

Hainanese chicken rice is a dish of poached chicken and seasoned rice, served with chilli sauce and usually with cucumber garnishes. It was created by immigrants from Hainan in southern China and adapted from the Hainanese dish Wenchang chicken. It is considered one of the national dishes of Singapore and is most commonly associated with Singaporean cuisine, being widely available in most food courts and hawker centres around the country. Variants of the dish can also be seen throughout Southeast Asia, particularly in Malaysia and Thailand, where it remains a culinary staple.

Hainanese chicken rice is a dish adapted from early Chinese immigrants originally from Hainan province in southern China. It is based on a well-known Hainanese dish called Wenchang chicken (文昌雞), which is one of four important Hainan dishes dating to the Qin dynasty. The Hainanese in China traditionally used a specific breed, the Wenchang chicken, to make the dish. They would usually cook rice with the leftover chicken stock to create a dish known as "Wenchang chicken rice". The original dish was adapted by the Hainanese overseas Chinese population in the Nanyang area (present-day Southeast Asia). Almost every country in Asia with a history of immigration from China has a version. The San Francisco Chronicle says, "the dish maps 150 years’ immigration from China's Hainan Island to Singapore and Malaysia, where the dish is often known as Hainan chicken rice; to Vietnam, where it is called "Hai Nam chicken"; and to Thailand, where it has been renamed "khao man gai" ("fatty rice chicken").

In Singapore, the dish was born out of frugality, created by servant-class immigrants trying to stretch the flavour of the chicken. The first chicken rice restaurants opened in Singapore during Japanese occupation in World War II, when the British were forced out and their Hainanese servants lost their source of income. One of the first was Yet Con, which opened in the early 1940s, There were also sources stating that Wang Yiyuan, a street hawker first started selling "chicken rice balls wrapped in banana leaves " in Singapore during the 1920s. The dish was popularised in Singapore in the 1950s by Moh Lee Twee, whose Swee Kee Chicken Rice Restaurant operated from 1947 to 1997. Hong Kong food critic Chua Lam credits Moh with the creation of the dish. Hainanese chicken rice is considered one of Singapore's national dishes. It is eaten "everywhere, every day" in Singapore and is a "ubiquitous sight in hawker centres across the country".


A tasty in SE Asia, a taste of home
Hainanese chicken rice from Wenchang, China

More than a century ago, those who moved from China's Hainan to countries in Southeast Asia also brought along their native dish: Hainanese chicken rice, which soon became popular among locals.


So, if Hainan chicken didn’t come from Hainan, where is it from?
Singapore and Malaysia both lay claim to creating the smooth-skinned, sweet, firm fleshed dish served with broth-boiled rice… but only one can be the victor

We all know that French fries is an American term for chips, or frites. While the French and Belgians dispute who was the first to fry long strips of potatoes, it should not be any surprise to learn that Hainan chicken did not originate from Hainan either.

There is a consensus that the deliciously silky chicken dish with delectable sauces did get its inspiration from what is commonly known just as “chicken rice” in the southern Chinese province, or “wen chang” chicken by those referring to the dish outside Hainan. Wen chang refers specifically to a breed of chicken used to make chicken rice in Hainan: this type of free-range chicken roams around the islanders’ homes pecking at fallen coconuts as its main diet.

However, according to food critic and Hainan native Isaac Lau, this type of free-range chicken is hard to come by nowadays. “There’s been a lot of development in Hainan and there just aren’t enough farmers to keep up with the demand.” he says. Lau describes wen chang chicken as having an incredibly smooth, almost translucent skin with firm flesh that is sweet on the palate. Bones and other odds and ends are cooked to make a broth that is used to make the accompanying rice, but that is where the similarities end. The fowl is usually served with ginger, lime and a sauce made with orange chillies native to Hainan and – since wen chang chicken is specific to a breed and how it is raised – anything else just isn’t the real deal.


Hainanese chicken rice, rage in SE Asia

Boiled chicken, rice cooked with chicken oil, and dip make up the simple and delicious Hainan chicken rice, which has been lingering nostalgia for overseas Chinese in Southeast Asia.

More than a century ago, more and more Hainan people went across the ocean to Southeast Asia, bringing along their native dish Hainanese chicken rice. As time went by, Hainanese chicken rice gradually became a popular dish in Southeast Asian countries, including Singapore, Thailand and Malaysia.

Located in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia, Andrew Wong Hainanese Chicken Rice restaurant is quite famous among the locals. Andrew Wong Hin Hau, the owner, whose ancestral home is Qionghai, Hainan Province, has been cooking Hainan chicken rice since 2003.


Hainanese chicken rice, the rage in SE Asia
Andrew Wong Hin Hau prepares chicken for Hainan chicken rice in Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, Malaysia, Dec. 3, 2022.(Photo: Xinhua)

Boiled chicken, rice cooked with chicken oil, and dip make up the simple and delicious Hainan chicken rice, which has been lingering nostalgia for overseas Chinese in Southeast Asian countries, including Singapore, Thailand and Malaysia.

Andrew Wong Hin Hau is the owner of a famous Hainanese chicken rice restaurant in Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia. In his eyes, Hainanese chicken rice is a delicacy and heritage from his hometown in Hainan. It not only satisfies the diners, but also embodies the taste of home for overseas Chinese from Hainan in southern China.


Hainanese chicken rice all the rage in SE Asia
Wenchang, a city in Hainan is the birthplace of Hainanese chicken rice

Boiled chicken, rice cooked with chicken oil, and dip make up the simple and delicious Hainan chicken rice, which has been lingering nostalgia for overseas Chinese in Southeast Asia.

More than a century ago, more and more Hainan people went across the ocean to Southeast Asia, bringing along their native dish Hainanese chicken rice.

As time went by, Hainanese chicken rice gradually became a popular dish in Southeast Asian countries, including Singapore, Thailand and Malaysia.


Hainanese Chicken Rice: What Makes Singapore’s National Dish So Good?

Singapore’s national dish is called chicken rice, not chicken and rice (there is a difference if you want to pretend to be a local). Originating from Hainan, China, chicken rice is commonly called Hainanese chicken rice and can be found in all hawker centres in Singapore.

A hawker centre (above) is place where you can find tonnes of small food stalls where ‘hawkers’ (the individual in charge of the stall) sells inexpensive food. How inexpensive? A Hainanese chicken rice meal will cost you about $2.00 (SGD) and if you splurge for vegetables on the side it will cost an extra dollar. It’s no wonder that when I tell people that I cook my own meals at home, they look at me like they are watching a horror movie.

Hawker centres are an experience of a life time and a must-do on any trip to Singapore. They are usually open-air complexes that are found near public housing, between train stations, and close to malls. On the outside, hawker centres look dirty and rundown, but they are completely safe and strictly regulated by government bodies. You can usually find at least 10 different types of cuisines in a hawker centre (Malay, Korean, Japanese, Western, etc), so there is no need to worry about going hungry. So what makes chicken rice so special? Here are five reasons why the chicken rice in Singapore is like to no other:
  • The chicken tastes like silk
  • The rice is cooked in chicken broth
  • The dark soya sauce
  • Deep fried shallots
  • Consistency


Hainanese Chicken Rice – Famous Singapore National Dishes

Hainanese chicken rice is a dish of poached chicken and seasoned rice, served with chilli sauce and usually with cucumber garnishes. It was created by immigrants from Hainan in southern China and adapted from the Hainanese dish Wenchang chicken. It is considered one of the national dishes of Singapore and is most commonly associated with Singaporean cuisine but is also seen throughout Southeast Asia, particularly Indonesia and Malaysia where it is a culinary staple.

Hainanese chicken rice is a dish adapted from early Chinese immigrants originally from Hainan province in southern China. It is based on a well-known Hainanese dish called Wenchang chicken (文昌雞), which is one of four important Hainan dishes dating to the Qin dynasty. The Hainanese in China traditionally used a specific breed, the Wenchang chicken, to make the dish. The original dish was adapted by the Hainanese overseas Chinese population in the Nanyang area (present-day Southeast Asia)

In Singapore, the dish was born out of frugality, created by servant-class immigrants trying to stretch the flavour of the chicken. Hainanese chicken rice is considered one of Singapore’s national dishes. It is eaten “everywhere, every day” in Singapore and is a “ubiquitous sight in hawker centres across the country”. While most commonly associated with Singaporean cuisine, the dish is also seen throughout Southeast Asia and in parts of the United States. The dish is widely popular in Singapore and can be found in most coffee shops and food courts.


Best chicken rice in Singapore: Do you like it roasted, steamed or poached?

One of Singapore‘s most recognisable national dishes, there’s no way you can live in the city without trying a plate of chicken rice. In a time of food fads, this unwavering local favourite can sure hold its own. Served with roasted or steamed chicken atop fragrant rice that’s cooked in chicken broth, garlic, ginger and pandan leaves, the iconic dish is best savoured with chilli.

Best chicken rice in Singapore:
  • Wee Nam Kee Chicken Rice
  • Boon Tong Kee
  • Hawker Chan
  • Loy Kee Best Chicken Rice
  • Five Star Kampung Chicken Rice
  • Evertop Hainanese Boneless Chicken Rice
  • Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice
  • Pow Sing Restaurant
  • Jew Kit Hainanese Chicken Rice
  • Chye Kee Goldhill
  • Chatterbox
  • Ming Kee Chicken Rice


Hainanese Chicken Rice Cơm Gà Hải Nam

Did y’all know that Hainan Province formed several million years ago in the South China Sea after breaking off from what is now the northeastern coast of Vietnam? Fast forward to the mid-1800s, many people from the Chinese island province started to migrate to nearby Southeast Asia in search of more prosperous economic opportunities. When they left the island, they also brought with them one of the province’s most notable culinary exports, Hainanese chicken rice. The Hainanese immigrants forged roots throughout Southeast Asia, and their eponymous dish made a mark on essentially all of the cuisines in this region. Each of these countries has a variation of this delectable chicken and rice dish.

In Vietnamese cuisine, the dish is known as cơm gà hải nam. It’s such a simple dish composed of few ingredients, yet tastes exquisitely delicious. We start by gently poaching a whole chicken with ginger and onion. Once the chicken is cooked, we remove it from the broth and allow it to cool. I’ve read that some chefs dunk the chicken in ice cold water after cooking it. In doing so, a gelatinous layer forms on the surface of the chicken and the skin becomes more elastic. We then take the rich poaching broth to steam the rice. I skim off and discard all of the chicken fat that comes to the surface of the broth. But, many folks will use that fat to make the rice, which gives it a nice glossy sheen. To give the rice an even bolder flavor, I sauté the rice after steaming it with minced garlic and ginger.

You’re probably wondering how such an ordinary sounding dish made its way into so many cuisines known for their colorful flavors and even becoming one of the national dishes of Singapore. As in French cuisine, it’s the accompanying sauce that elevates this dish from banal to finger-licking scrumptiousness. When I ate this dish at Chinese restaurants in Alhambra and Monterey Park in Southern California, they served it with several dipping sauces–chili, soy and ginger-scallion sauces. Of the three sauces, my favorite was always the ginger-scallion one, which is made of minced ginger, green scallions, oil and salt.


HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE

Hainanese Chicken Rice (海南鸡) originated––perhaps unsurprisingly––in Hainan, China, a tropical island located at the southern tip of the country. In recent years, it has become one of the top tourist destinations in China, probably due at least in part to the abundance of delicious plates of Hainanese chicken rice.

Hainanese chicken rice has become a famous dish (thanks, Anthony Bourdain!), but it’s especially popular in South East Asian countries like Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand. There are large populations of Chinese in these countries, and this dish crossed borders along with Chinese migrant workers.

While the chicken is undoubtedly a key component of the dish, I personally think the main event is the rice, which is cooked with chicken fat and chicken stock (from poaching the whole chicken). Normally, rice is cooked with plain water, so I can only imagine the reactions when people first taste this rice: eyes-popping and jaws dropping (to shovel in more of that rice, of course). It’s a luxury to cook rice using chicken soup, and the taste is better than plain white rice by a mile and a half.


Meet the brothers who left banking to take over dad's Nam Kee Chicken Rice Restaurant
Nam Kee Chicken Rice Restaurant opened in 1968, and is now run by the founder's grandsons Lincoln, Dave, and Ken Chew. (Photos: Nam Kee, Joyce Yang)

When the Chew siblings told their superiors at the bank that they were leaving to sell chicken rice, the latter thought it was a joke.

“My big bosses actually got angry,” said 32-year-old Dave Chew. He had earlier roped his elder and younger brothers, Lincoln and Ken, into the same bank, where they became top performers in the same department and reported to the same people. “They said, just tell me which competitor is poaching you. You don't have to tell me stupid things like you're going to sell chicken rice." Only when their bosses saw them slogging at Nam Kee Chicken Rice Restaurant did they buy it. While their disbelief is valid, so are the trio’s reasons for giving up lucrative careers to take over their father’s business – during the pandemic, no less.

Nam Kee Chicken Rice Restaurant – not to be confused with a competing restaurant chain – was founded on Hainan Island by Mr Chew’s late father before finding its way to Upper Thomson in 1968. He was only six years old.


Son of Swee Kee chicken rice founder sues 2 brothers for alleged share of $16m house
A son of Swee Kee chicken rice founder, Moh Tai Siang (left) sues two brothers, Royston Moh Tai Suan (middle) and Moh Tai Tong (right) in tussle over a house which has been sold for $16 million, at the High Court, April 18, 2017. ST PHOTO: LIM SIN THAI

The third son of the man who founded the famous Swee Kee chicken rice shop on Tuesday (Apr 18) took his two brothers to court to fight for his share of the family home in Katong that was sold for $16 million in 2015.

Back in 1985, Mr Moh Tai Siang, 59, had transferred his one-quarter share in the Branksome Road house to second son Tai Tong, also known as Freddy, and youngest son Tai Suan, also known as Royston. Three decades later, he is suing his two brothers for $4 million - his one-quarter share of the sales proceeds. He contended that all these years, Freddy, 61, and Royston, 58, have been holding his stake on trust for him.

The three brothers are sons of the late Mr Moh Lee Twee, who opened the renowned Swee Kee Chicken Rice Restaurant on Middle Road in 1949. Swee Kee, often regarded as the pioneer of Hainanese chicken rice in Singapore, closed its doors in 1997. In 1957, Mr Moh bought the Branksome Road house, which was home for him, his wife and his four sons and their families. After his death in 1977, his widow continued staying there but the sons later moved out except for Freddy.


Swee Kee: The Rise and Fall of The Chicken Rice Empire

In Singapore, chicken rice is not just a dish. The muse for local film productions, like the ‘Chicken Rice War’, this simple but scrumptious dish holds a special place in the hearts of Singaporeans. Moh Lee Twee started as a street vendor selling chicken and rice out of bamboo tubes. His chicken rice was a hit and he soon opened his shop: Swee Kee Chicken Rice Restaurant.

For the younger generation who may not have heard about Swee Kee, it was considered the place to go for chicken rice. In fact, Violet Oon noted that Swee Kee’s chicken rice “was unanimously agreed” to be Singapore’s best in the 50s and 60s in her review of the shop. Unfortunately, when Swee Kee closed its doors in 1997 for renovation, it didn’t reopen again. The golden age of chicken rice has come to an end and the name soon faded from people’s memories. In 2015, however, Swee Kee’s name was splashed across papers again. Not because it was reopening but because the sons of Moh Lee Twee were suing each other over rights to the family home. Located in Katong, the jewel of the East, the Moh family house sits on an impressive 13,844 square feet of freehold land. When Moh Lee Twee bought this property in 1957, he intended it to be a home for his family and his sons’ families. He may or may not have predicted to hit the real estate jackpot when the property value inflated to the point where it was auctioned and sold for $16.3 million in 2015.

Before his death in 1977, Moh Lee Twee distributed the house shares to his four sons equally. At that time, only his eldest son was of legal age to receive his shares. The remaining shares for his other sons were held in a trust and given to them when they turned 21 years old. As a businessman, he had the wisdom and foresight to plan and distribute his wealth using the appropriate financial tools. However, despite all his planning, he still couldn’t prevent family fights from breaking out. The third son, Moh Tai Siang, took his brothers Freddy and Royston Moh to court to fight for his share of the family home. His eldest brother, Moh Tai Sing, passed away in a car accident in 1987.