Under The Angsana Tree: Teochew Kueh 潮州粿

25/06/2023

Teochew Kueh 潮州粿

Our Top Picks for Teochew Kueh

Kueh is a broad term that refers to morsels that resemble dumplings. And it is most commonly used in countries tied to the Southeast Asian region such as Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia. These bite-sized treats can be both savoury or sweet, depending on the preparation. While the Indonesian and Malaysian kuehs have the tendency to teeter on the sweet side, the Chinese or more specifically Teochew kuehs, are more savoury.

Some of the more popular Teochew-style kuehs including soon kueh (stuffed with bamboo shoots, jicama and dried shrimps), png kueh (stuffed with an aromatic mixture of pork, mushrooms, shallots, peanuts and diced dried radish), ku chye kueh (dried shrimps and Chinese chives) and ang ku kueh (sweet dumplings made to resemble tortoises filled with a variety of fillings from sweet mung bean to peanut, yam to coconut).

While there isn't a bad time to be consuming these little parcels, they're more commonly had for breakfast. Here are five spots that start hawking their Teochew-style kuehs early:

Yong's Teochew Kueh
Fatt Soon Kueh
Ji Xiang Confectionery
Poh Cheu
Hong Shan Ang Ku Kueh

Kueh And Snacks has traditional handmade kueh in Bukit Merah

If you live near Queensway or Bukit Merah, you may have come across Kuehs And Snacks (Ah Ma Kueh). This old-school kueh stall has been around for over 30 years, with its recipes passed down from owner Chin Siew Ying, affectionately known as Ah Ma.

Kuehs and Snacks is said to be the first place in Singapore to sell Black Herbal Kueh AKA chi kak kueh or shu ke kueh (鼠壳粿). This fragrant kueh, traditionally eaten during the Chinese New Year season, is made with herbal leaves from China. You can choose from three fillings: herbal leaves, green bean, and black sesame. Another lesser-seen kueh is the Bamboo Shoot Kueh. Also referred to as the OG version of soon kueh, this old-school snack features fresh bamboo imported from Malaysia for a sweet and crunchy texture.

The range of handmade Ang Ku Kueh is not to be missed, too. Classic flavours include Green Bean, Salty Bean, and Peanut, but you can also get modern fillings such as Durian. If orh nee is up your alley, try their Yam flavour, featuring creamy and earthy yam paste in the between purple-hued mochi skin. As everything is made fresh daily, you might want to give them a call before heading down if you’re looking for a specific kueh. Alternatively, pre-order online to avoid getting disappointed!

Extra-stuffed, extra-tasty Teochew soon kueh in Joo Chiat

As we navigate these days of automation, industrialisation and mass production, it feels like we’ve lost that human touch – a sense of belonging and a connection to a remembered past. In my personal search for culinary authenticity, I’ve found a taste of the past that connects me to the Teochew side of my heritage.

Madam Tay Lee Tiong’s traditional savoury kuehs were a delight to discover, thanks to the recommendation of my Makan Kaki and author of the cookbook The Way Of Kueh, Christopher Tan. Through the course of research for his book, he met this formidable woman with an equally formidable skill in creating traditional Teochew snacks like soon kueh, png kueh and koo chye kueh (all of which are variations of steamed rice cakes or dumplings, stuffed with different fillings). At Ah Yee’s Soon Kueh (named for Madam Tay, whom everyone calls “Auntie”, or “Ah Yee” in Mandarin), the gregarious ladyboss calls out friendly greetings to customers from behind the glass counter, while deftly shaping her kuehs for steaming. She has no formal training in the culinary arts, but has learnt the way many women of her generation did – through marriage and the necessity of taking care of a large household.

Making traditional Teochew kueh at home for prayers and important Taoist festivals was part and parcel of her kampung life in Changi. She picked up the skills by observing an auntie who was the designated family kueh-maker. When she needed someone to take over, Madam Tay gamely stepped into the role, perfecting her recipes by trial and error, improving through the help of neighbours and those she met at the temple.

Teochew Png Kueh

One might think that sealed in this bright pink chewy flour skin is a sweet treat. But under that sweet delicate looking exterior is a whole new world of flavourful glutinous rice filling, bringing with it a savoury twist.

To make Png Kueh, you would need a special wooden mould in a shape of a peach with a pointed edge. Its unmistakable peach shape comes about from the Chinese symbol of longevity, hence the custom for Chinese to use these as offerings during religious ceremonies. Pink for the gods in heaven and white for the gods in hell. Not only does the filing play a big part in the taste, the skin also makes or breaks a good Png Kueh. If you want your Png Kueh skin thin, sticky and tender, make sure to watch the ratio of flour and water. Too much flour makes the skin tough while too much water makes it fall apart. But fret not, follow our recipe and you have no worries getting that soft bouncy texture.

Add a boost to that savoury flavour and drizzle on sweet soy sauce. This delicate sweet pink Teochew traditional snack, makes your day even just by looking – the perfect comfort food enjoyed by all generations at any time of the day.

A Truly Teochew Delicacy: Ku Chai Kuih 韭菜粿

Ku Chai Kuih or Teochew Chive Dumplings is also known as Teochew Hun Kuih. These dumplings are steamed, hence making them a great healthy yet tasty and light snack. Not to forget, it’s also my family’s all time favourite snack. Growing up in a Teochew family, I have always enjoyed my mum’s home cooked Teochew delicacies. And this type of dumplings always rekindle fond memories of her and is very close to my heart.

The traditional Teochew Chive Dumpling is made using either rice flour or tapioca flour. However, those commonly sold and popular today are mostly made with wheat starch which yields the signature transparent and crystal like skin. The skill in making Ku Chai Kuih actually lies very much in making the skin. On steaming the dumplings, it should become transparent and has a soft, chewy texture.

The main ingredients for the dumpling’s filling consist of only chives and dried shrimps. Sometimes the best taste does come from the simplest of ingredients. The fragrance of garlic chives and the savoury aroma of dried shrimp enrich the overall taste of this steamed dumplings. In addition, the emerald hue of chives can be seen under the dumpling’s translucent skin making it look so appealing and appetising. You will not stop at one, that I can assure you.

Teochew Png Kuih Revisited 潮州饭桃

It is interesting that I have another recipe of Teochew Png kuih since I already have one recipe in this post: Rice Cake In A Peach Form？… Png Tao (饭桃, 米包米, 饭粿, 潮州红桃粿 issued on July 2014. There is nothing wrong with the recipe but that recipes suits busy house chefs and using short cut methods.

Just to tell readers very frankly, tentatively, I have accepted one local Chinese TV station’s invitation to share my png kuih recipe but thinking of the old recipe worries me. I am visualizing there are a lot of Teochew ah ma sitting in front of the television and scrutinizing me how I prepare their traditional, respected and favourite festival kuih… I am sure they will laugh and cannot accept my short cut method of preparation since they are all experts in preparing such kuih for many years.

I knew the traditional method, I issued my first recipe is to facilitate the new house chefs that are busy housewives. When I thought that since I am going to appear in TV, as a respect to traditional cuisines, I must show the audience the proper, traditional way of preparing this kuih.. I cannot take any short cut and I must use the most traditional recipe and that is why I have decided to issue this recipe.

10 Best Teochew Kuehs In Singapore

Teochew kuehs are lesser known to the younger generations today in Singapore, and this has nothing to do with them being less delectable than other local delights.

For all you out there who are missing out on some of the best foods Singapore has to offer, here is a list counting down some of the best stalls where you can get some of that soon kueh, as soon as possible:

Lau Chong Kee Bedok Confectionary
Lai Heng Homemade Teochew Kueh
Ah Shen Ah Mah Teochew Kuehs and Snacks
Yong Xiang Carrot Cake
Poh Cheu Homemade Soon Kway Ang Ku Kueh
One Kueh At A Time
Teochew Kueh Stall @ Sims Vista Market & Food Centre
Fatt Soon Kueh
Ji Xiang Confectionery
Yong’s Teochew Kueh

Lai Heng Handmade Teochew Kueh – First Teochew Kueh Stall Awarded Michelin Bib Gourmand

Lai Heng Handmade Teochew Kueh 莱兴手工潮州粿 at Yuhua Place Market & Hawker Centre is one of the new entrants to the Michelin Bib Gourmand Singapore 2021 list, making it the first Teochew Kueh stall to be given the award.

There are a couple of semi-long queued stalls at Yuhua Place Market & Hawker Centre, such as Hua Xing Bak Kut Teh, Xing Yun Hainanese Boneless Chicken Rice, Poon Kee Wanton Noodle, Li Fang Zhou Pin and Jing Jing Carrot Cake, but Lai Heng appears to be one of the most popular. Opened from 6:30am in the mornings (except Mondays when they are closed), you can see the hawkers hand-making the Teochew Kuehs within the small stall in neat clockwork.

There are four types of Kuehs being sold, from Soon Kueh (turnip and bamboo shoots), Ku Chai Kueh (chives), Chye Kueh (cabbage) and Peng Kueh (glutinous rice).

These are the best ang ku kueh in Singapore

Hand-crafted ang ku kueh are a rare find these days. But thankfully these three old school confectioneries have soldiered on and continued to roll out these sweet treats for our snacking pleasure.

Ang ku kueh or red tortoise cakes are shaped to look like tortoise shells with the Chinese character “shou” or “longevity” imprinted in the centre. They are often used as temple offerings particularly during Hungry Ghost and Ching Ming Festivals. It is also presented as an auspicious gift during a baby’s full month celebration.

A well-made kueh is soft and pleasantly chewy, with a smooth, delicate skin made of glutinous rice flour. Popular fillings can range from traditional sweet mung bean and peanut to yam and coconut. “For homemade ang ku kueh, the trickiest part is judging how much water to incorporate into the dough for the skin, as this depends partly on the rice flour and other starches used, the ambient humidity, and so on. The goal is a smooth and malleable dough that will retain the details of the ang ku kueh mould,” To have a bite of this sweet favourite, alongside a taste of yesteryear, here are three places that still sells hand-crafted ang ku kueh in Singapore:

Ji Xiang Confectionery
Lina Confectionery
Poh Cheu

15 Teochew Kuehs You Should Know If You Are A Teochew

Kuehs, kuehs and more kuehs. Do you know your kuehs? Here’s 15 Teochew kuehs you should know if you are a Teochew:

Gu Gue - Teochew Gu Gue is a delightful cake served as an offering during ancestor worships and rituals.
Bung Gue - With its peach-like shape, Bung Gue (rice cake also known as Red Peach cake) is a distinctive and popular Teochew cake.
Ci Kag Gue - Ci Kag Gue is a Teochew snack used for ancestor worship during the Qing Ming Festival (Tomb-Sweeping Day) and Dong Zhi Festival (Winter Solstice Festival).
Gan Gue - Teochew Gan Gue also commonly known as Huag Gue uses fermented rice to make the cakes which has no fillings and is mixed with white sugar for light sweetness.
Huag Gue - These mini Huag Gue is produced by fermented rice with no fillings and added with sugar for a sweet flavor.
Diam Gue - Glutinous rice and sugar make up the Teochew Diam Gue, meaning sweet cake.
Sung Gue - Sung Gue fillings are mainly made of bamboo shoots cut into thin strips, blending minced pork, mushrooms, shrimp etc.
Gu Cai Gue - Similar as the Sung Gue except its fillings are mainly made of finely chopped leek and blended with minced pork, shrimp etc. Gu Cai Gue skin is made using flour or rice powder and the cooking method for this cake can be either steamed or pan-fried.
Dao Sa Bian - With the insides containing either green or red bean paste, the Teochew Dao Sa Bian is made together by mixing oil, syrup sweetener like sweet sauce and then baked. It is either sweet or salty in fillings.
Hi Bian - The name Teochew Happiness cake comes literally from the Chinese word “Xi”, meaning happiness, which is stamped on the face of the cake.
La Bian - “La Bian” – “La” in Teochew means lard as this cake uses lard mixed with flour, sugar and filled with sweetened bean paste.
Neng Go - Apart from the Teochew mooncake, the Neng Go (“soft cake”) is also consumed during the Mid-Autumn Festival.
Lag Dao Go - Made up of green bean paste or green bean powder, Lag Dao Go (“Green Bean cake”) is generally mixed with sugar and occasionally with some sesame seeds.
Siu To Bao - Siu To Bao is shaped like a peach to represent longevity and fortune, filled with either bean or lotus paste and is steamed beautifully.
Dao Diao - Peanut candy in China is a common snack. However, the Teochew peanut candy, Dao Diao is characterized by using lard, peanut, sugar and maltose, all mixed well together and heated until they have thickened and solidified.

Yong's Teochew Kueh (Upper Serangoon)

Traditional Teochew kuehs which are handmade daily and always bursting with nicely seasoned fillings.

The skin used on their kueh has a very thin and soft texture that breaks easily upon biting into it and they include dried shrimps in most of their kueh that makes it very fragrant and aromatic.

The kueh is plump, stuffed with lots of fillings and they are also quite big in size if I am to compare them with a png kueh.

Yong’s Teochew Kueh has cheap traditional kueh in Kovan

Teochew kueh arrived in Singapore along with 19th-century settlers from Chaoshan, Southern China. Both sweet and savoury versions of their staple food are still appreciated today, though to a smaller extent, as these kueh seem to be falling out of favour with the younger generation.

Personally, I am a big fan of these humble but hearty snacks though I don’t see them being sold around as often. When I heard about Yong’s Teochew Kueh, it reminded me that I haven’t eaten savoury kueh for a while, so I decided to head down immediately to give them a try.

Yong’s Teochew Kueh, a well-established brand since 1988, has gained significant media coverage and a large following over the years. Yong’s Teochew Kueh is a 10-minute walk away from Kovan MRT Station. It was hard to miss the brightly lit store that boasted a bustling ambience, with many staff workers preparing batches of kueh. The experience here was homely and akin to visiting my grandparents’ house for a meal, as a friendly staff auntie pointed out the dishes she’d recommend.

related: Old Airport Road Stall Sells Handmade Old-School Teochew Kueh

10 Best Places For Teochew Kueh In Singapore For Those Who Desire Good Old Taste

While our palate has evolved beyond simple rice and noodle-based dishes, Teochew Kueh is almost a faint whisper amongst the sea of trending culinary delights.

Here are the 10 best places for Teochew Kueh in Singapore that will satisfy your tastebuds for some good old snacks:

Yong’s Teochew Kueh
Poh Cheu Homemade Soon Kway Ang Ku Kueh
Lai Heng Homemade Teochew Kueh
Fatt Soon Kueh
Yoon’s Traditional Teochew Kueh
Ah Shen Ah Mah Teochew Kuehs and Snacks
Sims Vista Market and Food Centre
One Kueh At A Time
Lau Chong Kee Bedok Confectionery
Ji Xiang Confectionery

Soon Kueh And Koo Chai Kueh

For those who have been too Swatow, you will know that Soon Kueh and Koo Chai Kueh there are pan fried, cut open and served with chilli sauce. This stall which recently got their Michelin Bib Gourmand is true to their Teochew roots and will pan fry your kueh for you for 10 cents more.m so $1 per kueh.

So the kueh is now crispy on outside, soft and chewy on the inside. The filling is a mixture of bamboo shoots and jicama. Unlike most others, there is no overpowering taste of pepper. It is sweet and crunchy jicama although I wish there would be more dried shrimps.

The Koo Chai Kueh is nice as well, with fresh chives and dried shrimps. This one I would recommend not to pan fry as it ends up very greasy from the extra oil in the chives filling. The portions are small, literally you can finish off each with one mouthful. And as my breakfast kaki commented, if the Soon Kueh is good, you don’t need chilli and sweet sauce. Well done Lai Heng! Certainly coming back for more.

14 Traditional Soon Kueh Stalls In Singapore That Even Your Grandparents Will Approve Of

Soon kueh deserves more attention than it gets. Comprising a translucent rice flour skin and packed with jicama, dried shrimp and mushrooms, it’s an old-school snack that is both healthy and tasty. Plus, it’s one of the few dishes that brings me back to my Teochew roots. If you’ve never tried it before, it is high time you check out these traditional soon kueh stalls found all around Singapore.

Soon kueh stalls all around Singapore to treat your grandparents to: