18/11/2022

Natural Life: Eating coconut worms


The Future of Food: Eating Insects
Like It or Not, Fried Fish-Cricket Soup Is Our Future

As far as food reviews are concerned, this one takes the cricket cake. Nestled between the pale white strands of silky noodles and nuggets of fried fish, the jet-black fried cricket looks almost comically out of place. A munch in, and we almost gagged; the bits of briny, metallic nuttiness of this bug lend an umami relish that’s rather hard to place.

Still, while an unprecedented fit, the fried cricket’s aromatic, peppery, and crunchy texture—reminiscent of nasi lemak sambal—is slowly growing on us. We like this, maybe. The strangeness of eating bugs gives way to mild acceptance that surprises our colleagues watching us from across the table, brows furrowed, perplexed.

We gamely chomped down on the remaining scraps of crickets and fish slices. The room is silent save for crackle-crunch-crackle-crunch-crackle. Soon, the table is only left with empty plastic containers. We slouch backwards on our chairs, sighing in food coma satisfaction. We check our teeth for stray bug legs and wings. Day one of eating crickets with local dishes is off to a good start.


Big Bug Boom

Governments and food industry players across the Asia Pacific region are providing increasing support to the insect-based food industry as an alternative protein source from South Korea to Australia, all touting health as sustainability as the sector’s biggest drivers.


Thai farmers find more money to be made in bugs
Thai farmers find more money to be made in bugs

Shortly after dawn, a procession of trucks, motorcycles and carts laden with plastic-wrapped bundles winds its way toward Aranyaprathet's sprawling Rong Klua market, the largest second-hand emporium in the country. The town is on the eastern border with Cambodia and draws vendors from the neighbouring country peddling mostly used clothing, curios and tawdry knickknacks. However, the 3,000-stall market is not all trinkets, with vendors selling fresh produce from Cambodia, including edible insects.

Thea Tep is one of a growing number of insect sellers creating a buzz in a cavernous hall in the heart of the market. Mornings are her busiest time, when boxes crammed with frozen grasshoppers are delivered to her shop, Tata Bugs Trading. She also sells frozen silkworm pupae transported overland from southern China. She says the business has improved since her father started it a decade ago. "The supply of insects is better now," she said.

The edible insect trade has taken off in Thailand in recent years and the country is now Southeast Asia's largest importer of insects. The United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) estimates Thailand annually imports 800 tons of edible insects from Cambodia, Myanmar and Laos and 270 tons of silkworm pupae from China.