Kim Choo Kueh Chang in Joo Chiat for since 1945
Talk about having a rich history: Kim Choo Kueh Chang, a Peranakan delicatessen, has been faithfully serving handmade Nyonya dumplings and kueh for 77 years. Located about 10 minutes on foot from Eunos MRT Station, locals and tourists alike flock to this beloved store for a taste of nostalgia and tradition.
Kim Choo Kueh Chang’s humble beginnings date back to 1945, when their founder Madam Lee Kim Choo sold her Nyonya rice dumplings under a banyan tree. Through the years, they have preserved the traditional flavours of their delicacies, serving as a bastion of Peranakan cuisine in Singapore. They were even selected to manage the Singapore Visitor Centre of Katong and Joo Chiat, because of their rich heritage and legacy.
Till today, all their rice dumplings and kueh are house-made on the premises, in the kitchen right behind their counter, where you’ll get all their products, only available for takeaway.
Kim Choo Kueh Chang
Kim Choo Kueh Chang's Nyonya rice dumplings have been a mainstay in Singapore’s diverse epicurean tapestry since 1945.
Many covet its rich taste, finely woven around the humble delicacy. But more importantly is its ability to preserve the traditional, unyielding to the hands of time and untainted by the modern.
Madam Lee Kim Choo managed a humble store under a Banyan Tree at the cross junction of Joo Chiat Place and Everitt Road in the early 1940s. Today, her name is synonymous with the precinct's rich Peranakan heritage and her Nyonya rice dumplings.
Kim Choo Dumplings
A Peranakan treasure that has been around since 1945, Kim Choo Kueh Chang’s third-generation custodians are dedicated to preserving their grandma’s recipes and the art of wrapping the well-loved triangular rice dumplings, which remain cult favourites today.
They still operate out of their original location at Joo Chiat Place, and are an integral part of the neighbourhood’s identity. They are so popular with locals and tourists alike that they also manage a Singapore Visitor Centre for the precinct of Katong & Joo Chiat. The mission is to share the Peranakan culture and its rich food heritage with all who are willing.
The Nyonya Dumplings and Kuehs of Kim Choo Kueh Chang
Kim Choo Kueh Chang has been operating out of a shophouse in Joo Chiat since 1945. It is most famous for its Nyonya Rice Dumpling (or Nyonya chang) and Traditional Salty Dumpling (or bak chang) but it also has a wide range of Nyonya kuehs, cookies and other snacks. Kim Choo Kueh Chang may also be the subject of another food fued in the East – like the Katong Laksa saga and the mee pok war (see The Straits Times Archives for 5 famous Singapore food feuds).
When a food stall becomes very popular or famous there will always be a risk that someone else will lay claim to the heritage name. Others may also come along and use a similar name or a part of its name to ride on the goodwill or reputation acquired or to give the impression that they are connected to the original stall. It appears that Kim Choo Kueh Chang has become that popular or famous. It has taken to putting up notices and announcing on social media that
ZONGZI: CHINESE STICKY RICE DUMPLING 粽 子
Zongzi (粽 子, Chinese sticky rice dumpling) is a traditional food for celebrating Duanwu festival (端 午 节, aka Dragon boat festival) which is on the fifth day of the fifth month of the Chinese lunar calendar. The Dragon Boat Race isn’t a tradition in the North-west of China where I grew up. But Zongzi is definitely an indispensable delicacy that makes this festival very attractive and special.
Zongzi is basically glutinous rice with sweet or savoury fillings wrapped in bamboo or reed leaves. After being cooked in water, all the ingredients stick together and stay in a particular shape when unwrapped. It’s a sticky, aromatic and flavoursome treat that involves some very specific preparation. But it’s worth every bit of effort as it tastes so good!
There is a large variety of Zongzi across China. They differ in size, shape and filling. Growing up with sweet Zongzi stuffed with red beans and/or Chinese dates, I encountered culture shock the first time I heard of savoury ones. Having meat as the main filling is very popular in the southern regions of China such as Shanghai, Canton, etc. You may also find them filled with salted egg yolks, chestnuts, dried shrimp, etc. Obviously sweet and savoury Zongzi are very different in taste, but I think they are equally delicious! That’s why I’d like to introduce both versions in this post.
Bak chang 101: How to tell Hokkien, Nyonya, Teochew and other rice dumplings apart
Whether you call them bak chang, zongzi or glutinous rice dumpling, there is always a plethora of different types available in Singapore. Every dialect group boast their own distinct ingredients and colour in the traditional offerings, while restaurant chefs annually try to come up with modern takes and new combinations.
How to tell the difference? Here’s a list of some variations of those delicious little pyramids of sticky rice and meat wrapped in bamboo leaves – and where you can order them:
- TEOCHEW CHANG - A good mix of sweet and savoury fillings. Usually made with marinated pork belly, mushrooms, dried shrimp, Chinese sausage, chestnuts, lotus seeds and mung bean paste. The inclusion of the sweet mung bean paste (first rolled into a ball and then wrapped in caul fat) is the main ingredient that differentiates the Teochew chang from the rest.
- HOKKIEN CHANG - Most commonly available all year round and distinctly savoury. Dark brown in colour. Usually made with pork belly, salted egg yolk, chestnuts and dried shrimps. The rice is typically fried with five-spice powder and dark soy sauce for aromatic fragrance.
- NYONYA CHANG - Tinged with a blue tip, dyed using blue pea flower. Wrapped in pandan leaves, boasting a sweet fragrance. Usually made with lean pork, candied winter melon strips and coriander powder. Glutinous rice is made with blue pea essence. Slightly sweet.
- HAKKA CHANG - Usually made with pork, salted egg yolk, black-eyed peas and mushrooms. Similar to Cantonese chang but the main difference is that it’s wrapped in black eyed peas (instead of green mung beans) and pork before it’s boiled. Pale in colour.
- KEE CHANG - Prepared with yellow glutinous rice (made with lye water). Presented either plain without fillings or stuffed with red bean paste. Slightly sweet with an alkaline aftertaste. Dipped in sugar or drizzled in gula melaka for a much sweeter profile. Small in size.
TEOCHEW STICKY RICE DUMPLINGS (BAK CHANG) 潮 州 粽 子
Sticky rice dumpling, better known as zongzi 粽 子 is a traditional Chinese food eaten to celebrate the Dragon Boat Festival ( 5th day of the 5th month of the lunar calendar ) which falls on 20th June this year. It is a bamboo leaf wrapped dumpling filled with sticky rice and other ingredients. Generally speaking, there are 2 types of zong zi, namely the sweet and savoury ones. The sweet dumplings are normally filled with red bean paste and the savoury ones are filled with pork, salted eggs mushrooms, dried shrimps or chestnuts.
What is Teochew Bak Chang (Sticky Rice Dumpling)? What Are The Typical Ingredients Used? What is so special about our Teochew Sticky Rice Dumplings (Bak Chang / Bak Zhang 肉 粽) is that they are a combination of savoury and sweet. Also known as Double Flavour Zongzi (Shuang Pin Zongzi 双 拼 肉 粽 子), these are savoury as well as sweet, because of the red bean paste ball that is added together with the savoury fillings.
The typical fillings in my family’s Bak Chang are shiitake mushroom, 5 spice pork belly, chinese sausage, chestnuts, dried shrimps, salted egg yolk and the star of the dish: red bean paste ball. Traditionally, the red bean paste ball is wrapped into balls using caul fat (or pork lard netting) to keep the sweet filling apart from the savoury fillings, which also makes it much more aromatic too. My family especially loves the red bean paste in the teochew sticky rice dumplings, without which will not be complete.
Nyonya Bak Chang (Peranakan Glutinous Rice Dumpling)
This is my version of Nyonya Chang. A sweet and savoury rice dumpling with a distinct patch of blue from the blue pea flower.
It is usually wrapped in pandan leaves but as I was not able to get broad pandan leaves, bamboo leaves were used instead.
Nyonya changs are different from the rest due to the candied winter melon and coriander powder used to make the filling. Minced pork belly was also used for this recipe instead of finely diced pork.
NYONYA CHANG (NYONYA GLUTINOUS RICE DUMPLINGS)
Nyonya Chang (娘 惹 粽) is a Melaka Peranakan cuisine.
A traditional Nyonya Chang has a distinctive sweet and savory taste with a patch of blue glutinous rice, which is colored by blue pea flower juice.
This Nyonya Chang recipe is absolutely delicious and not overly sweet with a hint of spiciness. The secret to get the best flavor is to use whole coriander seeds and white pepper seeds instead of store-bought ground spices.
NYONYA CHANG GLUTINOUS RICE DUMPLINGS (NYONYA ZONGZI)
Nyonya cuisine or sometimes you will refer to as Peranakan cuisine is a hybrid between the traditional Chinese and Malay cooking. The term Nyonya or Peranakan is commonly used in Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore where both Chinese and Malay influence exist. Nyonya chang is basically a variation of the traditional Chinese zong zi created by the peranakan people.
The Nyonya chang is typically characterized by its blue color on some part of the dumplings more often than not, though not always. It’s totally fine not to have the blue color too. The filling is infused with a strong Malay spice we know as coriander seeds (don’t be mistaken with coriander leaves, which is totally different in aroma and taste) or we call it ketumbar in Indonesia. Kencur (lesser galangal) is also added. These two make very distinct pleasant aromas.
Chinese zong zi is savory in taste. Nyonya chang taste more at the sweet side than savory, thanks to the candied winter melon. Coriander seeds and kencur pair well with a sweet taste.
EASY HOKKIEN BAK CHANG (ZONGZI-STICKY RICE DUMPLINGS)
I’ve never imagined making zongzi or bak cang in Hokkien dialect, on my own. I mean this was something I took for granted. Either my mom would make them or my aunt would make some or my dad would buy some. Regardless, we always had some to eat. They are also available at most Asian grocery stores too, however, I always miss the one I had at home. Zongzi is traditionally eaten at the Dragon Boat Festival on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month (confused yet ? don’t worry about the day and the month, just focus on the food).
The Dragon Boat Festival is the commemoration of the death of the great poet and official of the state of Chu, Qu Yuan, during the Zhou dynasty. He wrote a great deal of poetry during his life and serve in high offices. He was accused of treason during the warring states period. He felt despair and Qu Yuan drowned himself in the Miluo river in northern Hunan. People who admired Qu Yuan made rice parcels and threw them into the river in the hope that the fish would not consume Qu Yuan’s body and ate the rice parcels instead. Despite all the stories out there, no one really knows for sure. I just know that Zongzi is eaten all over the world, especially in Asia. Of course, as the Chinese immigrated to other countries, this culture is carried along and now is eaten in other parts of Asia and has been adapted to local taste too.
My Dad’s family is Hokkien and needless to say, Hokkien bak chang is what I grew up eating. Even though my mom’s family is Teochew, but I’ve never tasted Teochew bak chang before. Teochew bak chang has both sweet and savory filling. Hokkien bak chang is much darker in color because dark soy sauce is used and I know some has black-eyed peas added to the filling. I didn’t use that. The meat filling is also cooked in five-spice powder and chestnuts and salted egg yolk are added. The glutinous rice grain is usually stir-fried in five-spice powder and dark soy sauce for that dark appearance.
ALKALINE DUMPLINGS (KEE CHANG)
Traditional kee chang (alkaline dumplings) filled with Chinese red bean paste or plain kee chang served with palm sugar syrup or dipped in sugar. Can be cooked in Instant Pot too.
As its name suggested, the sticky rice is mixed with alkaline solution that makes the dumplings chewy and bouncy. The alkaline also turns the rice slightly yellowish brown in color.
The sticky rice is then wrapped in a cone-shaped using banana leaves and then boiled until the sticky rice literally sticks to each other into one beautiful cohesive mass. The dumplings are then hanged to let them firm up before serving.
Kee Chang 素 碱 水 粽
Kee Chang is the most traditional of all rice dumplings, as it is plain with only glutinous rice wrapped in bamboo leaves.
You can have it by dipping into authentic Gula Melaka Sauce, kaya or sugar. All our Kee Chang are cooked slowly over charcoal fire for the best taste coupled and we use only the best organic glutinous rice! Every purchase of our Kee Chang comes with our homemade Gula Melaka Sauce provided.
Please Note that For any rice dumplings, they are kept frozen and can last for 1 month upon received. You can thaw and steam it for 20 mins under high heat before consumption.